Monday, 24 January 2011

THE TRUTH ABOUT OYSTERS

Sydney Rock Oyster, Saccostrea glomerata
I had occasion over the holiday period to enjoy several dozen oysters. 
The first opportunity came in Narooma on the NSW south coast where the only variety of oyster you can buy is the Sydney rock. In fact, the local Parks and Wildlife rangers are vigilant in removing and destroying any Pacific oysters that they find growing on local oyster leases or rocks.This Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) is an introduced species and in my opinion it should be destroyed wherever it is found on the eastern seaboard of Australia. 
Pacific oyster, Crassostrea gigas

A taste comparison, as I was able to conduct the other night at Esposito's in Carlton, will show the superiority of the Sydney rock in all aspects except size.Pacific oysters grow very quickly, so oyster farmers may prefer them but any discerning oyster lover is likely to regard them without affection. Like many introduced species, they are aggressively crowding out the native species and our world would be poorer without the Sydney rock to enjoy with our 2010 Squitchy Lane Fume Blanc.
This wine was made with oysters in mind and it proved very successful with the ones I purchased in the shell at Tuross Lake, opened and consumed that night in Sydney.
My last oyster-eating occassion was at Catalina in Rose Bay, where a large tray was filled with ice and covered with freshly shucked Sydney Rocks. These were really fresh, very creamy and just about perfect in every way.
I have sworn never to eat another Pacific oyster in my life.

Wednesday, 29 December 2010

2009 CHARDONNAY

We released the 2009 Squitchy Lane Chardonnay just before Christmas. The 2008 is just about sold out although we will keep a few cases for museum stock and later tastings.
Vintage conditions in 2009 were extreme to say the least. We picked the Chardonnay immediately after the record-breaking heat wave even though the  sugar levels were lower then we normally expect. In fact, the wine in the bottle is only 11.0% alcohol but it doesn't lack body or texture. Rather like good Hunter Semillon, if the fruit is properly grown in the right area then low alcohol contributes a freshness and keeps the wine in balance.
One noticeable feature of the 2009 wines is their immediacy--they are ready for drinking on release and while they will develop with a few years in the cellar, they are probably best consumed in their youth.
There is a lovely nougat-like nuttiness to this Chardonnay, accompanied by some nice wild ferment yeast characters. I know I shouldn't say it, but it does remind me of a Macon or perhaps a Pouilly-Fuisse. I think the early picking, the natural yeast ferment and the lees contact have all added extra dimensions to the wine.
It's certainly the most "approachable" Chardonnay we have made. The 2010 is more in line with the 2008 and we hope to give it at least nine months bottle ageing before release. These vintage differences are what makes wine from single vineyards so fascinating.

Monday, 20 December 2010

CORK or SCREWCAP continued.....

Here, from another blogger, is an excellent reply to the preposterous cork ad in the previous post...

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/8101201/

And don't get me started on the Iberian lynx nonsense.....

CORK or SCREWCAP? If you are dumb enough to believe this ad, the choice is easy.

Normally I wouldn't comment on this sort of thing but after watching this video, I couldn't restrain myself. It seems that the only thing between me and a rampaging sex life is that I prefer my wine sealed with a stelvin or screwcap!
This must be one of the most insulting and puerile pieces of advertising I have ever seen.
Fortunately, there are several good ways to answer this, if indeed it needs answering. I will post again soon on this topic.
Here at Squitchy Lane we use screwcaps exclusively. We believe they are technically superior to cork in every way. It's only tradition that convinces winemakers to continue with cork.

Tuesday, 14 December 2010

FLOWERS and WINE

Floral descriptors are frequently used by us wine types when we attempt to articulate what we are smelling and tasting in a particular wine. There is good scientific basis for such comparisons since grapes, wine and flowers share many aroma compounds. Riesling is well-known for its floral scents and we often see similar aromas in Gewurtztraminer and Viognier for example.
But I really just wanted an excuse to post this photo of a magnolia in my garden. I think the species is magnolia grandiflora. It's a beautiful tree and the magnolia has a singular place in the world of flowering trees. Here's an extract from Wikipedia to explain further:
Magnolia is an ancient genus. Having evolved before bees appeared, the flowers developed to encourage pollination by beetles. As a result, the carpels of Magnolia flowers are tough, to avoid damage by eating and crawling beetles. Fossilised specimens of M. acuminata have been found dating to 20 million years ago, and of plants identifiably belonging to the Magnoliaceae dating to 95 million years ago. Another primitive aspect of Magnolias is their lack of distinct sepals or petals.

I can vouch for the pollination by beetles--these flowers are full of them when you look past the outer layer.  
Chardonnay seems like the vinous equivalent of magnolia to me, despite its relative lack of floral aromatics. It must be something to do with the voluptuous nature of these flowers.