2009 CHARDONNAY

We released the 2009 Squitchy Lane Chardonnay just before Christmas. The 2008 is just about sold out although we will keep a few cases for museum stock and later tastings.
Vintage conditions in 2009 were extreme to say the least. We picked the Chardonnay immediately after the record-breaking heat wave even though the  sugar levels were lower then we normally expect. In fact, the wine in the bottle is only 11.0% alcohol but it doesn't lack body or texture. Rather like good Hunter Semillon, if the fruit is properly grown in the right area then low alcohol contributes a freshness and keeps the wine in balance.
One noticeable feature of the 2009 wines is their immediacy--they are ready for drinking on release and while they will develop with a few years in the cellar, they are probably best consumed in their youth.
There is a lovely nougat-like nuttiness to this Chardonnay, accompanied by some nice wild ferment yeast characters. I know I shouldn't say it, but it does remind me of a Macon or perhaps a Pouilly-Fuisse. I think the early picking, the natural yeast ferment and the lees contact have all added extra dimensions to the wine.
It's certainly the most "approachable" Chardonnay we have made. The 2010 is more in line with the 2008 and we hope to give it at least nine months bottle ageing before release. These vintage differences are what makes wine from single vineyards so fascinating.

CORK or SCREWCAP continued.....

Here, from another blogger, is an excellent reply to the preposterous cork ad in the previous post...

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/8101201/

And don't get me started on the Iberian lynx nonsense.....

CORK or SCREWCAP? If you are dumb enough to believe this ad, the choice is easy.

Normally I wouldn't comment on this sort of thing but after watching this video, I couldn't restrain myself. It seems that the only thing between me and a rampaging sex life is that I prefer my wine sealed with a stelvin or screwcap!
This must be one of the most insulting and puerile pieces of advertising I have ever seen.
Fortunately, there are several good ways to answer this, if indeed it needs answering. I will post again soon on this topic.
Here at Squitchy Lane we use screwcaps exclusively. We believe they are technically superior to cork in every way. It's only tradition that convinces winemakers to continue with cork.

FLOWERS and WINE

I

Floral descriptors are frequently used by us wine types when we attempt to articulate what we are smelling and tasting in a particular wine. There is good scientific basis for such comparisons since grapes, wine and flowers share many aroma compounds. Riesling is well-known for its floral scents and we often see similar aromas in Gewurtztraminer and Viognier for example.
But I really just wanted an excuse to post this photo of a magnolia in my garden. I think the species is magnolia grandiflora. It's a beautiful tree and the magnolia has a singular place in the world of flowering trees. Here's an extract from Wikipedia to explain further:
Magnolia is an ancient genus. Having evolved before bees appeared, the flowers developed to encourage pollination by beetles. As a result, the carpels of Magnolia flowers are tough, to avoid damage by eating and crawling beetles. Fossilised specimens of M. acuminata have been found dating to 20 million years ago, and of plants identifiably belonging to the Magnoliaceae dating to 95 million years ago. Another primitive aspect of Magnolias is their lack of distinct sepals or petals.

I can vouch for the pollination by beetles--these flowers are full of them when you look past the outer layer.  
Chardonnay seems like the vinous equivalent of magnolia to me, despite its relative lack of floral aromatics. It must be something to do with the voluptuous nature of these flowers.

PARIS???

Shaded alleyways, quiet lanes, the sun filtering through a canopy of green leaves, the quiet hum of conversations over coffee and croissants. Such havens do exist in Paris, but they also exist in Mudgee, NSW, where I took this picture last week. For a few brief moments, I thought I was in Europe and then some local winemakers arrived, the conversation turned to rainy weather and disease which brought me back to reality. There seems to be no escape from the wet weather, no matter where you go in Eastern Australia. 

The next day, in nearby Orange a state of emergency was declared due to rising floodwaters. Dams were overflowing, the rivers couldn't cope and water was everywhere. 2011 will really be a vintage to remember, if we have one at all.

RAIN and MORE RAIN

It keeps raining. This photo was taken in my backyard earlier this week after yet another torrential, sub-tropical downpour. This lovely silver birch could no longer support itself in such sodden ground. It seems that the weight of water on the leaves and branches caused it to topple over. There may be more to come.
I have been visiting vineyards in Central Victoria during the week. Everywhere, it's the same story--floods, crop damage, ground too wet to get tractors on and more rain coming. Mildew, both powdery and downy, threaten every vineyard. We have already seen some growers abandon their grapes--unable to sell their fruit, they are not willing to pay for the sprays needed to combat disease. It looks like being the toughest season for many, many years. One grower, who planted his vines more than 20 years ago, told me it was the worst he had ever seen.
So far, the Squitchy Lane vineyard has coped well. There are some very isolated outbreaks of mildew  but they have not spread and will dry up once we get some sunny, warm weather. The vines have been thinned to increase air flow and it's working. 
But it isn't just a matter of keeping the mildew under control. Poor weather at flowering can have a significant effect on final crop load. Flowering is just about complete in most varieties so next week we will be able to see what damage the weatehr has caused. I expect that crops will be smaller than anticipated because of the rainy weather--the grape berries do not form properly and many are aborted from the bunch in such conditions.
I will post some photos early next week after we have a close look through the vines. In the meantime, let's hope we have seen the end of the rain.